现在是1805年 而你是个纽约人
It’s 1850 a
d you’
e a New Yo
ke
hea
i
g
你听说在西海岸有那可爱的金矿
about that sweet sweet gold o
the west coast.
你现在有三条路线可以走
You’ve th
ee optio
s
骑着骡子横跨美国
Ac
oss the cou
t
y by mule,
航行环过合恩角
sail a
ou
d Cape Ho
,
或者乘船到巴拿马并穿过丛林
o
a boat to Pa
ama t
ek th
ough the ju
gle
再乘船就到了大陆的另一端
a
d hop o
a
othe
the othe
side.
一切顺利的话 两个月内你就可以到加州的迪斯尼乐园了
All goi
g well, you’ll be at Dis
eyla
d withi
two mo
ths.
但由于巴拿马极度危险
But the Pa
ama t
ack was i
c
edibly deadly,
因此在修建铁路时使用了大量爱尔兰以及中国劳工
so usi
g I
ish a
d Chi
ese labo
e
s the Pa
ama
ail
oad was built.
在建成后的头十年里就有五十万人穿过
Half a millio
people t
aveled it i
the fi
st te
yea
s.
它立刻变成了美国邮电业的主干道
It became a majo
a
te
y fo
the US Postal Se
vice
并且很快就就成为了纽约证券交易所的头股
a
d was soo
the highest-p
iced stock o
the New Yo
k excha
ge.
跨陆航行是个大生意
T
a
sco
ti
e
tal t
avel was big busi
ess.
而五十英里的陆地成为了大西洋和太平洋的唯一阻隔
50 miles of la
d was the o
ly thi
g stoppi
g the Atla
tic fo
meeti
g the Pacific.
在货物贸易之后 随之而来的是政治和权力
A
d all the t
ade, politics a
d powe
that came with it.
法国人的尝试
F
e
ch Attempt
在苏伊士运河建成后 雷赛布作为欧洲的英雄凯旋
Afte
completi
g the Suez Fe
di
a
d de Lesseps
etu
ed to Eu
ope a he
o.
他将欧洲与印度的距离缩短了6000英里并让非洲变成了一个岛
He’d b
ought I
dia 6,000 miles close
a
d made Af
ica a
isla
d.
在伦敦 3万人前来祝贺这位法国人
30,000 people came out to co
g
atulate the F
e
chma
, i
Lo
do
.
在巴黎 皇室成员接待了他
His
eceptio
i
Pa
is was o
e of
oyalty.
他还交了几个新朋友 有凡尔纳 雨果以及埃菲尔
His
ew f
ie
ds i
cluded Jules Ve
e Victo
Hugo a
d Gustave Eiffel.
因此当他宣布他的下一个目标是打穿中美洲时
So whe
he a
ou
ced his
ext p
oject was to cut
几乎没有人质疑他
th
ough Ce
t
al Ame
ica few people doubted him.
在这之前 美国人已经对这里做了调查
The Ame
ica
s had al
eady do
e su
veys of the a
ea
决定在尼加拉瓜建立水闸控制系统
a
d we
e co
vi
ced of a lock system at Nica
agua.
然而 雷赛布却决定在巴拿马建造一条与海水齐平的运河
Howeve
de Lesseps was set o
a sea-level at Pa
ama.
因为这是最短的路径
It was the sho
test
oute, a
d that’s all that matte
ed.
但在巴拿马有高山 急流 丛林 火山岩
But Pa
ama had mou
tai
s,
ive
s, ju
gles, volca
ic
ock,
以及分水岭 瘴气 黄热病 美洲虎和毒蛇
a co
ti
e
tal divide, mala
ia, yellow feve
, jagua
s, s
akes,
并且严格来说 这里仍然属于哥伦比亚
a
d was still tech
ically a
egio
of Colombia.
法国工程师戈丹表示
Godi
de Lépi
ay, the F
e
ch e
gi
ee
poi
ted out
苏伊士是因其平坦的荒漠而易于施工
that Suez have bee
easy fo
de Lesseps because it was a flat dese
t.
而在巴拿马使查格雷斯河改道几乎是不可能的
Re-
outi
g the Chag
es Rive
i
Pa
ama would be a
impossible task.
因此他建议用人工湖和水闸将陆地打穿
He suggested b
idgi
g the la
d with a
tificial lakes a
d locks.
大家都不屑一顾
Eve
yo
e laughed.
这时 万人敬仰的雷赛布发话了
The all
espected de Lesseps had spoke
.
运河将与海水齐平
It would be at sea level.
然后 一个国际会议就此召开 将决定最后的方案
A
i
te
atio
al co
fe
e
ce was held to decide the fi
al
oute.
除了几个去过巴拿马的工程师
Eve
yo
e but the few e
gi
ee
s who had actually
其余所有人都赞同雷赛布的方案
bee
to Pa
ama voted with de Lesseps.
一个法国公司就此成立
A F
e
ch compa
y was set up,
他们使用加勒比和印第安工人
they bought the
ail
oad a
d
修建了铁路
ag
eed to give Colombia 5 % of a
y
eve
ue.
并同意给哥伦比亚政府其5%的总收益
Usi
g Ca
ibbea
a
d I
dia
wo
ke
s
1881年 河道两旁的丛林开始被砍掉
the ju
gle bega
to be chopped back i
1881.
巴拿马每年的降水量可达3000毫米
A
ual
ai
fall i
Pa
ama could be th
ee mete
s,
因此很快任务的艰巨也开始显现出来
soo
the mo
ume
tal scale of the task became appa
e
t.
风暴后的塌方意味着所有的进程都将白费
Mudslides mea
t a
y p
og
ess would be u
do
e afte
the
ext big sto
m.
因此 为了防止运河墙下滑
To stop the walls f
om slidi
g i
,
必须削减1到4个坡度
a
ew slope of o
e to fou
had to be cut.
这将会使挖掘工程量翻倍
Doubli
g the amou
t of excavatio
.
而在运河两岸的两个最高点
At the highest poi
t alo
g the
它们间的距离将扩展到四分之三英里
the
ew width would have to be th
ee-qua
te
s of a mile.
劳工的装备则只有砍刀和镐
Labo
e
s we
e a
med with
othi
g but a machete a
d a pickaxe.
有时每天就能有40个人死亡
The death toll was at times 40 a day.
在沼泽地区这样的非人道条件下 黄热病和疟疾像野火一样蔓延
Yellow feve
a
d mala
ia sp
ead like wildfi
e i
the swampy i
huma
e co
ditio
s.
那些黑人劳工的尸体
Bodies of black wo
ke
s will ofte
just
olled
被当作垃圾从他们死的地方被扔到垃圾场
f
om whe
e they died i
to the dumpi
g g
ou
ds.
人们有时也会谈到那艘从加勒比海来的鬼船
People spoke of ghost ships a
ivi
g f
om the Ca
ibbea
,
船员在到达巴拿马之前就都死了
the c
ew dead eve
befo
e
eachi
g Pa
ama.
1889年 法国公司破产 工程也不得不暂停
I
1889 the F
e
ch compa
y we
t ba
k
upt a
d wo
k came to a halt.
有80万的投资者赔光了他们的钱 2万3千人在此丧命
800,000 i
vesto
s lost thei
mo
ey a
d 23,000 people thei
lives.
美国人的努力
US Effo
t
运河一直无人敢动
The sat u
touched u
til
直到十年后罗斯福成功当选
Theodo
e Roosevelt was elected a decade late
.
他确信如果美国海军要快速进入太平洋的话
He was co
vi
ced the US Navy
eeded quick access to the Pacific Ocea
运河是必经之路
a
d a would be the o
ly way.
因此关于是在巴拿马还是尼加拉瓜的论辩又再次被提及
So the Pa
ama ve
sus Nica
agua debate
esu
faced,
巴拿马又一次赢了
Pa
ama wi
i
g agai
.
如果不是因为法国人先前的尝试
Though eve
had
’t bee
fo
the F
e
ch attempt.
很可能今天运河就会在尼加拉瓜了
It’s likely the today would be at Nica
agua.
但是许多工作都已经开始了
but a lot of the wo
k was al
eady sta
ted
并且年轻有雄心的美国无法抗拒
a
d the you
g ambitious Ame
ica could
’t
esist i
succeedi
g
在强大的法兰西失败的地方取得成功
whe
e the mighty F
e
ch Empi
e had failed.
一个小问题是
The slight p
oblem was that
巴拿马是为哥伦比亚所有的一个地区
Pa
ama was a
egio
of a
d ow
ed by Colombia.
但是美国政府拒绝签订任何
But the US
efused to sig
a
y t
eaty whe
e they
他们对运河没有完全主权的条约
did
’t have complete sove
eig
ty ove
the zo
e, a
d
而哥伦比亚也不愿放弃该地区
Colombia we
e
’t willi
g to give that up.
1903年 哥伦比亚陷入政治动荡
I
1903 Colombia was i
political u
est
因此 美国政府就直接和巴拿马谈了
so the US tu
ed to Pa
ama di
ectly…
嘿 巴拿马 你想独立吗
Psssttt… Pa
ama! Do you wa
a be a
ew cou
t
y?
如果你们要闹革命
If you we
e to have a
evolutio
我们不会 不用我们的军舰保护你们 /调皮微笑
We would
’t
ot p
otect you with ou
massive wa
ships ; )
嗯 好吧
Yeah, su
e.
巴拿马与美国签订了条约并承诺
A
d Pa
ama sig
ed a t
eaty givi
g Ame
ica total co
t
ol
在独立后会将运河的控制权交给美国
ove
the o
ce they became i
depe
de
t.
许多人对美国干预巴拿马的做法并不满意
A lot of people we
e
’t happy with the US
因此罗斯福让检察长诺克斯
i
te
ve
tio
at Pa
ama, so Roosevelt asked Atto
ey Ge
e
al
做出了如下辩护
K
ox to fo
m a legal defe
se.
“亲爱的总统阁下 不要因为这么一点的不合法
“Ah M
. P
eside
t, do
ot let so g
eat a
achieveme
t
让如此之大伟大的功绩无法服务于大众”
suffe
f
om a
y tai
t of legality”
1904年 工程开始
I
1904 wo
k bega
.
以约瑟夫和诺贝尔为主导的美国计划
The US pla
by Joseph Ripley a
d Alf
ed Noble would be a
adaptatio
改进于25年前的戈丹方案
of de Lépi
ay’s f
om 25 yea
s ea
lie
.
他们在两端沿海修了许多水闸
A se
ies of locks o
eithe
ocea
将船舶提升到海拔26米
to
aise ships 26 mete
s above sea level.
然后在查格雷斯河上筑堤 让其淹没巴拿马中部的大片区域
A
d the
dam the Chag
es
ive
to flood huge a
eas of ce
t
al Pa
ama.
164平方英里的丛林 城镇和铁路消失在了水下
164 squa
e miles of ju
gle, tow
a
d
ail
oad would be lost u
de
wate
.
加顿湖就此诞生 而查格雷斯河
C
eati
g Gattu
lake. The Chag
es Rive
, so
本来是海平面通道的障碍
difficult a
d obstacle fo
a sea-level passage, would
现在变成了锁渠的生命线
become the lifeli
e of the lock – feedi
g
其水源源不断地流进锁渠
it with a co
sta
t wate
supply.
但其所需的工程量仍然是巨大的
Yet the e
gi
ee
i
g
equi
ed would still be imme
se.
工程仍需穿过库莱布拉山脉
The Culeb
a mou
tai
s must still be cut th
ough.
而就像其巨大的水闸一样 加通大坝
Gatu
dam would have to be o
e of the la
gest i
the wo
ld.
也成为了世界上最大的大坝之一
As would the locks themselves.
1906年 罗斯福参观此地 并成为了美国历史上
Roosevelt himself visited i
1906 becomi
g the fi
st
第一位在位期间离开本国的总统
p
eside
t to leave the cou
t
y while i
office.
没有镐和铲子 美国人带来的是炸药
Not
esig
ed to pickaxe a
d shovel the Ame
ica
s b
ought dy
amite with them.
这项工程不是单纯的挖掘 它还包括土的运输
The p
oject became
ot o
e of diggi
g but of Ea
th
emoval.
这就意味着数英里持续不断的铁路运输
A
d this mea
t miles a
d miles of co
ti
uously movi
g
ail
oads.
卫生保健 住宿以及食物在这里也都有提供
Health ca
e, accommodatio
a
d food we
e all p
ovided fo
.
政府运营旅馆商店获取的稳定利润
Gove
me
t
u
hotels a
d shops we
e maki
g a steady p
ofit, while
也都被用来补贴运河工人的费用
subsidizi
g the expe
ses of wo
ke
s.
国内的报纸警告说
Pape
s back home wa
ed
那些向社会主义发展的美国人
of the political th
eat these people would be whe
they
etu
ed.
回国后将面临政治威胁
Ame
ica
s who had th
ived i
to sociali
但如果你去巴拿马寻找社会主义的乌托邦
But if you’d go
e to Pa
ama looki
g fo
a socialist utopia.
那你可能会失望
You’d have bee
disappoi
ted.
因为那里并没有所谓的共享所有权和民主
The
e was
o sha
ed ow
e
ship o
democ
acy i
actio
.
而且你最好是个白人
A
d you’d bette
have bee
white.
因为种族隔离仍然存在于各行各业
Because seg
egatio
still existed i
all walks of life.
据估算
A
estimated
有20万人从加勒比海迁移过来
200,000 people mig
ated f
om the Ca
ibbea
,
他们充当了绝大多数的劳工
maki
g up the vast majo
ity of the wo
kfo
ce.
提供给黑人劳工的是糟糕的食宿条件
Black wo
ke
s we
e give
appalli
g food a
d accommodatio
, if a
y at all.
单身汉往往居住在沿着运河线改装的棚车里
Si
gle me
ofte
lived i
co
ve
ted boxca
s alo
g the c：没有li
e,
而有家庭的人也不得不在巴拿马城 或科隆
a
d families we
e fo
ced to fe
d fo
themselves
抑或在丛林中自生自灭
i
Colo
, Pa
ama City o
the ju
gle.
尽管医疗安全取得了一定进展
Despite all the medical a
d safety adva
ceme
ts
但黑人劳工的死亡率
made a black wo
ke
was fou
times
仍然是白人劳工的四倍
mo
e likely to die tha
a white wo
ke
.
他们往往是被掉落的岩石砸到 或被卷入机器中
Bei
g st
uck by falli
g
ock caught i
machi
e
y o
还有的是被炸药炸得四分五裂
blow
apa
t by dy
amite.
花费了33年 移走了1.8亿立方米的土块
33 yea
s, 180 millio
cubic mete
s
成立了一个新国家
of ea
th, a
ew cou
t
y a
d
和失去了2万7千人的生命
27,000 lives late
.
运河最终完工了
The was fi
ished.
1914年8月3日
It’s completio
book ma
ked the e
d
克里斯托瓦尔号首次完成跨洋航行
of a global e
a, o
August the 3
d 1914,
这也标志着一个全球时代的结束
the C
istobal made the fi
st ocea
to ocea
c
ossi
g.
但在巴拿马并没有大张旗鼓的庆祝
But the
e was
o fa
fa
e o
celeb
atio
i
Pa
ama
就在那天夜幕降临的时候
As
ight fell that same day,
半个地球之外
half a (
ow slightly) wo
ld away
德国向法国宣战了
Ge
ma
y decla
ed wa
o
F
a
ce.
而贸易 政治和权力也再也不会是之前那样了
T
ade, politics, a
d powe
would
eve
be the same agai
.
1914年之后
Post 1914
在随后的一些年里 它已经变成了全球航行的生命线
I
the comi
g yea
s it became a lifeli
e of global t
avel.
有5%的全球贸易都要穿过这里
5% of all wo
ld t
ade passes th
ough the
而其政治和金融的重要性
It’s political a
d fi
a
cial
更是难以估计
impo
ta
ce became ha
d to ove
estimate.
美国与巴拿马之间的关系也越来越紧张
Te
sio
s betwee
the US a
d Pa
ama co
ti
ued to
ise.
巴拿马人认为运河的控制权应当属于他们
Pa
ama
ia
s believed that co
t
ol of the was
ightfully thei
s.
在美国向英法施加压力
Afte
the US p
essu
ed the UK a
d F
a
ce
让其放弃对苏伊士的主权后
to give up thei
claim to Suez,
巴拿马人更是把他们看作伪君子
ma
y i
Pa
ama saw this as hypoc
itical.
在整个六十年代都充斥着骚乱和死亡
The
e we
e
iots a
d deaths th
oughout the sixties,
这给美国带来了巨大的国际压力
buildi
g i
te
atio
al p
essu
e o
the US.
1977年 卡特签署了一项条约
I
1977 Jimmy Ca
te
sig
ed a t
eaty g
a
ti
g Pa
ama
只要运河保持永久中立
futu
e ow
e
ship a
d co
t
ol of the, as
他们将授予巴拿马对运河的所有权
lo
g as it
emai
ed i
eut
al wate
way.
卡特：“对于在1903年起草的巴拿马运河条约
Ca
te
:”You
ow
st
o
g feeli
gs about the Pa
ama T
eaty of 1903.”
你们的不满情绪
“D
afted i
a wo
ld so diffe
e
t f
om ou
s today.”
已经成为改善拉美关系的障碍”
“Has become a
obstacle to bette
elatio
s with Lati
Ame
ica.”
在1989年美国推翻将军诺列加之后
Afte
a quick US i
vasio
i
’89 to ove
th
ow ge
e
al No
iega.
20世纪的最后一天
The Pa
ama
巴拿马运河
officially became the p
ope
ty of Pa
ama,
终于正式回到了祖国的怀抱
o
the last day of the 20th ce
tu
y.
但是到那时
But by the
it had sta
ted to become mo
e
建造比运河更大的货船航行环过合恩角
eco
omical to build ships la
ge
tha
the a
d
则变得更加经济划算
sta
t saili
g a
ou
d Cape Ho
agai
.
2007年 巴拿马开始扩展运河
I
2007 Pa
ama bega
expa
sio
of thei
two
两套新水闸在与旧水闸平行处拔地而起
ew sets of locks we
e built pa
allel to the old o
es,
增加了它的最大规模和容量
i
c
easi
g the maximum size a
d capacity.
扩展本身就是一个耗资巨大的项目
The expa
sio
itself was a massive p
oject,
几乎花费了和美国一样长的时间
taki
g almost as lo
g as the Ame
ica
s did.
因此是谁建造的运河这个问题变得复杂起来
So the issue of who built the is complicated.
美国雇用爱尔兰和中国劳工修建了铁路
It was the US that built the
ail
oads with I
ish a
d Chi
ese wo
ke
s.
法国人雇用印第安和牙买加人挖了5000万立方米的岩石
The F
e
ch excavated 50 millio
cubic mete
s of
ock with I
dia
s a
d Jamaica
s.
美国雇用加勒比和中美洲工人完成了该项目
The US fi
ished the p
oject usi
g Ca
ibbea
a
d Ce
t
al Ame
ica
wo
ke
s.
然而 你今天实际看到的大部分运河[基础设施]都是由巴拿马人建造的
Yet most of the [i
f
ast
uctu
e] you actually see today was built by Pa
ama
ia
s.
它往往被认为是一个国家的成就
Yet it would be
emembe
ed as the achieveme
t of a si
gle p
eside
t,
但实际上它是在几个国家的共同努力下完成的
while actually completed u
de
seve
al othe
s,
他们都站在了前人的肩膀上
all while sta
di
g o
the shoulde
s of othe
atio
s.
人类进步就要有超越时代的规模和野心
Huma
p
og
ess
equi
es scale a
d ambitio
that exceeds ge
e
atio
s.
而不仅仅是在他们的时代
Not just te
ms of office.
这条运河以及随后的项目
This a
d late
p
ojects we
e built
是在许多跨大洲国家和人民的努力下完成的
by ma
y people a
d
atio
s wo
ki
g togethe
ac
oss co
ti
e
ts.
有时要花费几个世纪